Archive for the 'Restaurants' Category

Mijita Cocina Mexicana’s “Baja” Fish Tacos

Sunday, August 20th, 2006

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There are simple things that, when done right, are the best; the Hamburger, Fresh Baked Bread, French Fries, and the Fish Taco. We all have memories of the best “___” we’ve ever had. They are elusive, magical moments. The best fish taco I’ve ever had was at a taco stand in Ensenada, Mexico. I don’t even know it’s name, all I have is this picture. I’ve never met it’s equal.

Doing simple things well is often the hardest; it requires good ingredients, skill and above all confidence. Too often I find where just a little butter is needed, the temptation to add minced garlic, infused olive oil, a plethora of herbs, some exotic salt, balsamic, then some pepper, and then… and all I end up tasting is confusion and doubt. “If this doesn’t do it, maybe adding this will?” This applies to all art. It’s often what you don’t see, hear, or taste that’s just as important.

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Nobody got the “Baja” style fish taco right—until I tried the Taco de Pescado “Baja” at Mijita Cocina Mexicana in the Ferry building during a recent trip to San Francisco. Battered and deep-fried mahi-mahi in soft corn tortillas with cabbage and avocado-cilantro cream. That’s it. Well, that and love. There was love there, and it was mutual. If you’re ever in San Francisco, go get one. Who knew $4.75 could make you feel so good?

Mijita Cocina Mexicana, One Ferry Building #44, San Francisco, CA 415-399-0814

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The Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant

Friday, August 4th, 2006

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Deciding on which food experience would be my first post on Palate Revolution has been a really hard decision! Where on Earth do I begin? Well, after much thought on the subject of all things food (and drink) I have finally found the answer: Big Sur, CA.

Why Big Sur when there are food cities like: New Orleans, San Francisco and Seattle to discuss? Big Sur has always been a special place for me. It’s where my grandparents celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary, where my future husband and I spent our first weekend alone and where my mother and I would sit with our feet in the river and talk for hours—mostly about food. She and I tasted violet ice cream there for the first time at the Glen Oaks when I was a teenager. It changed the way I looked at food forever. It was the first time I saw food as an art form.

When my grandmother passed away she made us promise we would take her ashes there and ever since I have gone there to celebrate everything I believe life is about: love, loss, laughter, food, family, friends, creativity and nature. So what better starting point?

Big Sur is one of my favorite places in the world—and with so many delicious food memories attached to it! Not to mention it was recently the site of one of our favorite new restaurant discoveries of the summer.

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On a recent road trip to Big Sur we stopped at Nepenthe for some wine, cheese and gorgeous views before our dinner reservation at Deetjen’s (our usual spot.) We struck up a conversation with our waiter and asked where he likes to eat? He said he loves Deetjen’s but on his birthday, he goes to The Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant. He went on to explain that it was run by a couple from Los Angeles. She comes from the La Brea Bakery in LA and handles all the baking, desserts and bread making. He comes from Campanile in LA and handles everything else. We knew the La Brea Bakery and Campanile and were intrigued. We cancelled our reservations, called The Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant and made reservations immediately.

Our waiter warned us that The Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant had a gas station attached to it, but not to worry. We weren’t fazed. We approached the situation in much the same way we do when someone recommends we try a little sushi joint next to the adult video store at a mini mall in the valley. We’ve learned over our six years of living in Los Angeles that culinary experiences come in some highly unlikely places. So bring on the restaurant/gas station, we’re not afraid!

Once inside we knew we were in for some seriously delicious food. The ambience inside was charming—casual and homey with the feel of a country inn while still somehow sleek and contemporary. The dining room is anchored by a beautiful rustic fireplace, which of course made us both begin plotting how our next meal here should be spent in front of it on a foggy night. This day was so beautiful we chose to sit on the outside deck facing the redwoods.

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As we watched the early evening shadows begin to slowly create dark grooves in the mountains we were joined by local cats, busy stellar jays, hummingbirds and even the occasional butterfly. We were so relaxed that when the food began to arrive—looking and tasting like it did—we were convinced we’d found utopia.

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The meal began with a glass of Pinot for me and a Guinness for Frank. Then a variety of different types of fresh bread appeared before us (all baked on the premises in an enormous wood fire oven) presented beautifully on a rustic wooden cutting board along with sweet butter and Fleur de Sel—such a great reminder of how the basic things can be elevated by just a little attention to detail.

A line on the menu reads, “no phony allergies, bogus intolerances, nutritional nonsense, or provincial preferences.” I love this place!

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Next we ordered (with our servers advice) the special of the day: Fresh Clam and Corn Chowder. Our server told us that the chef adds no cream and only uses the potato to add richness and texture to the chowder. She was convinced that we would absolutely love it. She was so right! It was like summer vacation in a bowl. The corn was sweet and crunchy, the clams were lightly salty and tender and the lack of cream just made the broth seem like some sort of healing tonic you should just drink straight. Our waitress gave us a knowing glance as we sopped up every last drop of goodness with what was left of the smoky grilled bread that accompanied it.

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Next came my Nicoise Salad, also a special. It was an updated California version using local ingredients that kept the important essentials: fresh hard-boiled egg, crisp haricot verts and sweet new potatoes. It was tossed with a glistening tuna steak that had been perfectly poached in olive oil. I’ve always loved this classic but they managed to give it a new personality without losing any of the integrity. Even though I’m sure the French would not approve, I loved it! Like the rest of the items on the menu, it was simple and focused on flavor, and what brilliant flavors they were.

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Frank’s grilled wild salmon with thyme dressing was no exception. We knew as soon as she set it on the table that this would be nothing ordinary. First roasted until smoky and crisp under a wood fire, it was surrounded by roasted carrots, baby beets and fennel (one of the four preparation choices) all tender and tasting of the earth. A glaze of intoxicating emerald green shimmered on top of the pale pink fillet—golden balsamic vinegar, fresh thyme, tarragon, parsley and basil we were told. The fragrant aromatics we were experiencing left us both so stupefied that we had to ask exactly how it was made. As we fought over the last bite we agreed that it was nothing less than a perfect dish.

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How do you end such a meal you ask? With lavender crème brulee covered with a generous dollop of fresh huckleberries and a coconut Flan with bright orange sliced mangoes and mango Sorbet.

The Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant has given me one more reason to love Big Sur, one more reason for me to tell everyone I know that they MUST, absolutely MUST make it there at least once in their life. Expect to come back changed.

The Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant
, (831) 667-0520

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101 Noodle Express

Wednesday, August 2nd, 2006

Deep in the heart of Alhambra lies a hidden treasure call the “101 Noodle Express” cafe. Get your ass over there and order the Shandong-style beef roll.

The beef roll is based on 101’s spectacular Chinese pancakes, brawny, wheaten things crisped in oil — as chewy as rare flank steak underneath their thin, golden crust. The pancakes are rolled around slivers of stewed beef subtly flavored with spices, seasoned with a sprinkling of chopped scallion tops and fresh cilantro. The inside of the beef roll is smeared with a sweet, house-made bean paste with an ethereal, almost transparent top-note, a bean paste that bears the same relationship to ordinary hoisin sauce.

It’s $5 and it’s insane!!! Whatever you do, don’t let them coax you into getting the chicken roll.

101 Noodle Express, 1408 E. Valley Blvd., Alhambra, CA (626) 300-8654

Make it happen kids!

x

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Kiyokawa Sushi

Monday, July 24th, 2006

Rachel had wanted me to try Tasca for some time, so off we went. As luck would have it, it was closed for a private party when we got there. Lucky us, if we had gone there we may never have discovered Kiyokawa Sushi.

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Kiyokawa Sushi is on Robertson in Beverly Hills, right across the street from one of our favorite gelato places (more on that in another post.) The sign outside advertises “organic sushi.” The inside was nice (bonus points for most clever use of Ikea Benno furniture I’ve seen.)

As we sat at the sushi bar the sushi chef was cleaning a halibut he tells us he just picked that morning. A good sign. We asked what he recommended, “the halibut, yellowtail, toro…” We said, “Sounds great, do your thing.” He did.

Dish after dish was delicious and prepared with pride. For the toro we were given a mini grill with charcoal briquettes and told to just sear the Toro ourselves at the sushi bar. Amazing! For the halibut, the sauce was set on fire then poured over the sushi to quickly sear it as well. Delicious!

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We also tried the Sho Chiku Bai Organic Nama sake. Fruity and dry, it was perfect with the dishes.

We usually close with Uni, but he told us he never serves boxed Uni, just live and he was—apologetically—out. (Are you reading this Nina?)

We ate till we were full and had 2 bottles of their priciest sake; the total was $70 a person. Not cheap, but not outrageous either; definitely worth checking out. We’ll be going back and bringing friends next time. Who’s down?

Kiyokawa Sushi, 265 S. Robertson Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90211 (310) 358-1900

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